Manufacture and use of textile materials



Aug. 10,

Original Filed June 4, 1935 IHHIIIIHHIHIHIIIH]IIIIIIHIIIIHIIH W. WHITEH EAD MANUFACTURE AND USE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS IlllllllllllIHIIHIIIIIHHIIIIHIIH INVENTOR )K ATTORNEYS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Wil lam Wh'nehead Aug. 10, 1937. w. WHITEHEAD MANUFACTURE AND USE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS Original Filed June 4, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR Will am Whifeheaol Patented Aug. 10, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MANUFACTURE AND USE OF TEXTILE MATERIALS ration of Delaware Application June 4, 1935, Serial No. 24,830

Renewed January 29, 1937 18 Claims. (oi. 117-2) This invention relates to the manufacture of crepe threads and filaments of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose and to the production of fabrics therefrom wherein the crepe threads are formed by twisting a thread of cellulose acetate or other organic derivative of cellulose in the presence of a mixture of steam and a cool gas.

An object of this invention is the economic and expeditious production of threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose which, when formed into a fabric, produce a high degree of crepe and a strong fabric. A further object of this invention is the construction of a device for imparting twist to crepe threads wherein the thread as it is being twisted passes through a zone through which there is passed steam and a cool gas, for the purpose of enhancing the creping properties of the thread. Other objects of the invention will appear from the following detailed description.

In the drawings there are shown devices falling within the scope of this invention. In the various figures like reference numerals refer to similar or like elements.

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a section of a crepe twisting device showing the treating chamber partially in cross-section and having driving means, guides and other parts not essential to the description of the invention omitted for the sake of clarity.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation in cross section of the treating chamber shown in Fig. 1 and is taken on the line 22 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a front elevation partially in cross section of a modified form of treating chamber.

Fig. 4 is a side elevation partially in section of the treating chamber shown in Fig. 3 taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3.

.It has been found that if yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose are tightly twisted, especially in the presence of steam, they may be woven into a fabric which produces a substantial amount of crepe. It has also been found that the crepe yarns containing organic derivatives of cellulose form a crepe fabric, the type and amount of crepe eilect differing according to the conditions of the thread at the time the high degree of twist is placed therein. These varying conditions which influence the type and amount of crepe that the threads will produce causes difliculties in the manufactm'e of crepe fabrics consisting entirely or substantially of threads of organic derivatives of cellulose. By employing this invention, however, the conditions of the thread may be disregarded within wide limits and threads that will produce a uniform type of crepe are formed. Furthermore, by employing this invention the degree and type of crepe produced is governed by fewer variables, which may be easily controlled, such as amount of twist imparted to the thread, the type and temperature of treatment given to the fabric in the creping baths and other similar manual operations.

I have now discovered a method of and a device for crepe twisting thread which produces further improvements in the creping properties of the thread produced. By employing this invention there are produced crepe threads which have a greater strength and better creping properties than yarns produced by prior methods.

In accordance with the present invention, highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of organic derivatives of cellulose are produced from yarns of filaments of organic derivatives of cellulose by inserting a substantial amount of twist therein while the same are passing through a zone through which is passed steam and a cool inert gas; Also, in' accordance with this invention, I construct a device that is simple and eflicient in imparting a high degree of twist to yarns while they are being subjected to a mixture of steam and a 0001 gas in such a way that a mist may be formed in the yarn or about the yarn.

This invention is of especial value and will be more particularly described in connection with the production of crepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate. However, the invention is not limited thereto and it is applicable for use with yarns or threads made of other organic derivatives of cellulose such as cellulose formate,, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate or other organic esters of cellulose, and cellulose ethers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose or benzyl cellulose,

' The yarns to be formed into crepe threads may consist solely of filaments of cellulose acetate or filaments of other organic derivatives of cellulose or the same may contain mixtures of filaments or.fibres of organic derivatives of cellulose mixed with filaments or fibres of other materials such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, etc. The cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose may be present in the yarn in substantially continuous filaments, in relatively short lengths known as staple flbres, or in discontinuous relatively long lengths of filaments. When the yarns consist ofshort lengths of filaments and fibres, the same may be formed into yarn by the cotton principle, the wool principle or other methods of forming yarns.

The fibres or filaments of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose may have incorporated therewith suitable reagents for aiding in their twisting to crepe threads. For instance, any suitable plasticizer, oil or mixture of oil and plasticizer may be employed in such a manner and amount as to cause the filaments during the twisting operation to compact into a relatively solid thread without, however, efiecting a coalescence of the filaments. These substances may be placed upon the yarn as a coating during any winding operation or the same may be added to the spinning solution from which the filaments are formed.

Suitable plasticizers that may be incorporated with the yarn may be any one suitable for the particular cellulose derivative or mixture of cellulose derivatives employed. The plasticizers may be any of the high boiling solvents or softening agents as, for example, the aryl sulphonamides, such as para ethyl toluol sulphonamide, the alkyl phthalates, such as dimethyl phthalate, the dialkyl tartrates such as dibutyl tartrate, the alkoxy esters of polybasic organic acids such as diethoxy ethyl phthalate, the polybasic acid esters of the mono alkyl ethers of polyhydric alcohols such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether ester of phthalic acid, the alkyl esters of phosphoric acid such as triethylglycol phosphate, the aryl esters of phosphoric acid such as tricresyl phosphate, and the mixed alkyl and aryl phosphates such as ethylglycol dicresyl phosphate.

If desired, the filaments of the yarn to be formed into crepe threads may contain waterinsoluble compounds, such as compounds of pi ment-like character in such form as to modify the lustre of the filaments (e. g. barium sulphate or titanium dioxide) orthe loading metal compounds, for example, tin compounds.

In carrying out the new process twisting may be efiected on a device of the kind in which the thread is drawn oil over the end of a rotating package through a guide fixed preferably substantially in line with the axis of the rotation of the package and is thereafter wound on a bobbin or the like, the thread being passed, on its way from the guide to the bobbin, through a zone or chamber into which are simultaneously passed a current of steam and a current of cool inert gas. In this way the thread is subjected to the action of the'mixture of steam and cool gas during the gctigtal application of a substantial amount of On the other hand, any suitable crepe twisting device may be employed in conjunction with the chamber into which the streams of steam and cool gas are introduced. For example, a ring twister may be used for the crepe twisting of thread. In using the ring twisting device, the chamber through which the thread passes while being subjected to the action of steam and a cool gas may be either at right angles, parallel to, or on an extension of a line passing through the axis of the rotating spindle of the take-up package.

The invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings which show one type of twisting device, with two modifications of the treating chamber, for subjecting the yarn to the action of steam and a cool inert gas.

Driving elements, frame structure, guide elements, etc. have been omitted from the drawings for the purpose of simplifying the description and only that part of the twisting device that differs from well known forms of twisting devices is shown. Any suitable twisting device may be employed. For instance, a power driven rotatin spindle I suitably mounted on a frame and driven by any suitable source of power may be provided. The supply package 2 is adapted to ride on and be rotated by the spindle l. The yarn 3 may be passed through any suitable type of fiyer 4 that is mounted on the rotating spindle and held in place by the cap 5. The yarn 3 after leaving the fiyer I may or may not be passed through suitable guides such as a horizontally oscillating guide directing it on to a take-up package 6.

The treating chamber in one form of my invention may consist of a chamber 1 which, when more than one or a bank of twisting devices are employed, may run lengthwise the machine over the tops of the same. Suitably positioned in the chamber I may be thread guides 8 formed of porcelain, stainless steel or other suitable material. It is preferable to have the thread guides 8 mounted on a line that is the extension of the axis of the rotating spindle I. On the opposite side of the chamber 1 from the thread guide 8 may be mounted a nipple 9 of any suitable length, say, from 1 to 10 or more inches. The nipple 9 may contain a thread guide II. The yarn leaving the fiyer is twisted while passing through thread guide 8 and thread guide I I, subjecting the same to treatment in the chamber for the length of time it takes the thread to travel therethrough.

For the purpose of forming a mist in or on the .yarn as the same passes through the treating chamber, there may be provided along the machine a steam header l2 suitably connected to a source of steam, the header I! being preferably insulated to prevent the radiation of heat. At suitably spaced intervals along the chamber I there may be supplied branch lines I 3 connecting said chamber with the steam header. It is preferable that there be two of these steam branch lines for each two spindles employed. The branch lines l3 may be formed into or be equipped with nozzles or orifices N at the point where they enter the treating chamber.

A suitable header I5 may be provided for supplying the treating chamber with a suitable cool inert gas. This header may be connected to the treating chamber by suitable branch lines l5. It is preferable to so space the branch lines 16 so that the same enters the treating chamber at a point further from the thread being twisted than the entrance of the steam into the treating chamber. A preferred form is shown in the drawings wherein the air or other cool inert gas .is caused to enter the treating chamber between two steam nozzles through which steam enters the treating chamber, the assembly being so placed that the air or other gas enters the chamber on the side of the steam nozzle away from that on which the thread passes. Such assemblies may be supplied for each two twisting units.

In the operation of this form of my invention, steam is injected into the treating chamber 1, at suitable spaced points such as at the point H, at a suitable pressure, preferably slightly above atmospheric pressure, say, one-quarter to two centimetres of water pressure. However, pressures up to 10 or more pounds may be employed. A cool gas is injected into the treating chamber through the branch lines ii at a pressure sufficient to cause the cool gas to pass over the nozzles through which the steam is injected. The amount of cool gas and steam injected may be controlled by a hand cook or by other manual or automatic means to give the desired temperature, condensation, etc. Suitable gauges, thermometers and the like may be inserted in the device for the purpose of ascertaining and maintaining the desired regulation of temperature, moisture condensation, etc.

By employing this modification of my invention, a uniformity of treatment of the yarn is provided as the air or gas input, steam input and mixed vapor gas escaping through the thread guides are constant and the condensation varies very little.

Thus, the yarn is subjected-to a uniform temperature and to uniform amounts of mist,- steam and/or cool gas. The regulations of the temperature and velocities of the two gases are so adjusted that a mist may be formed in'or upon the yarn passing throughthe treating chamber. It has been found preferable to have the mixture of steam and cool gas, in or on'the yarn, at temperatures from about 95 C. to 98 C; The advantage of this modification is that the cool gas is caused to mix in a uniform manner with the steam at approximately the location of the thread passing through the treating chamber and therefore any mist that may be formed is localized within a short distance of the thread and may or may not be formed in the interstices of the thread.

In another modification of my invention the treating chamber 1 may have mounted therein lower thread guides 8 and nipples a corresponding to each twisting unit employed. The nipple 9 may terminate in a collar ll adapted tobe fastened upon a threaded nipple it. The threaded nipple i8 is adapted tobe fastened into a header is. The header l9 may have mounted therein 3. suitable thread guides 2i registering with each take-up package. A suitable header 22 may provided for supplying the treating chamber i with steam under suitable temperature and pressure in a similar manner to the prior modification. For this purpose branch lines .23 may be runv from the header to a nozzle 24 entering the treating chamber 1.

Mounted parallel to the header it there may be provided a suction line 25 that is connected into the header l9 by suitable branch lines 26 as through the port 27. Any suitable amount of suction may be applied to the header 25, it being preferable, however, to employ a degree of suction such that steam is prevented from escaping through the thread guides 8 and 2!.

In operation of this modification, steam is injected into the treating chamber 8 through nozzle 24 while suction is applied to the header l9 through the port 21. The relative pressure of steam and suction on the header 25 may be such that a substantial amount of cool air is drawn in through the guides 8 and 2| or if it is desired to have a greater quantity of cool air in the treating chamber ports 28 may be formed adjacent to the steam nozzle 24 in the treating chamber I, and/or ports may be formed in the nipple or nozzle 9 as at 29. By this method the steam is caused to contact with the yarn at substantially that point at which the steam is mixed with the current of cool air, thereby forming a mist either in the yarn or in close proximity thereto.

Any suitable cool gas may be employed, for instance, air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and like gases which have no detrimental action on the yarn being treated.

After imparting the twist to the thread, for instance, from 50 to 90 turns per inch, the same may be woven into a fabric. The fabric may be formed entirely of thread processedas described above or said threads may be employed in conto secure by Letters Patent is:

junction with other types of thread in any suitable arrangement. After the fabric has been formed the crepe efiect may be produced therein by any suitable method, for instance, by immersing the fabric in a heated bath.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description and drawings are given merely by way of illustration and that many variations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire 1. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments and passing the thread, while at least part of the twist is actually being inserted therein, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are beingintroduced.

2. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments and passing the thread, while at least part of the twist is actually being inserted therein, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are being introduced.

3. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments in a single stage and passing the thread, during the actual insertion of at least part of the twist, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are being introduced.

4. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments in a single stage and passing the thread,

during the actual insertion of at least part of the twist, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are being introduced.

5. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative 6. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments in a single stage and passing the thread. during the actual insertion of at least part of the twist, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are introduced in close proximity to the thread, the mixture of the steam and cool gas forming a mist in close proximity to the thread.

7. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises crepe twisting a thread of filaments and during the insertion of at least a part of the twist passing the thread through a zone containing steam at about atmospheric pressure, a cool gas being mixed with the steam in close proximity to the thread.

8. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises crepe twisting a thread of filaments and during the insertion of at least a part of the twist passing the thread through a zone a cool gas being mixed with the steam in close proximity to the thread.

9. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating a plasticizer for the organic derivative of cellulose with the thread, crepe twisting the thread of filaments and during the insertion of at least a part of the twist passing the thread through a zone into which is introduced steam and a cool gas.

10. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating a plasticizer for the cellulose acetate with the thread, crepe twisting the thread of filaments and during the insertion of at least a part of the twist passing the f thread through a zone into which is introduiced steam and a cool gas.

11. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments and passing the thread, while at least part of the twist is actually being inserted therein, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas are introduced,-the mixture of steam and gas being at a temperature of 95 to 98 C.

12. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe thread of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises crepe twisting the thread of filaments and passing the thread, while at least part of the twist is actually being inserted therein, through a zone into which steam and a cool gas" are introduced, the mixture of steam and gas being at a temperature of 95 to 98 C.

13. In a device for the twisting of threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose into crepe threads a supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a chamber having means for injecting steam therein and means for supplying a cool gas.

14. In a device for the twisting of threads containing cellulose acetate into crepe threads a supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a chamber having means for injecting steam therein and means for supplying a cool gas.

15. In a device for the twisting of threads, containing organic derivatives of cellulose into crepe threads, a supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a treating chamber, means for injecting steam into the treating chamber and means forinjecting a cool gas into the treating chamber, such means being arranged in such a manner that the steam and cool gas are mixed in close proximity to the thread passing through the treating chamber.

16. In a device for the twisting of threads containing cellulose acetate into crepe threads, 9. supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a treating chamber, means for injecting steam into the treating chamber and means for injecting a cool gas into the treating chamber, such means being arranged in such a manner that the steam and cool gas are mixed in close proximity to the thread passing through the treating chamber.

17. In a device for the twisting of threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose into crepe threads, a supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a treating chamber, means for injecting steam into the treating chamber, means for creating a sub-atmospheric pressure in the chamber and means for allowing the entrance of air into the chamber said means being so arranged as to cause the steam and air to intermix in close proximity to the thread passing through the chamber.

18. In a device for the twisting of threads con: taining cellulose acetate into crepe threads, a supply package, a take-up package, means for imparting twist to the yarn between the supply package and the take-up package and means through which the thread is passed adapted to cause a mixture formed from; steam and a cool gas to surround the thread during the actual insertion of the twist, said means including a treating chamber, means for injecting steam into the treating chamber, means for creating a sub-atmospheric pressure in the chamber and means for allowing the entrance of air into the chamber said means being so arranged as to cause the steam and air to intermix in close proximity to the thread passing through the chamber.

WILLIAM WHITEHEAD. 

